Here is the vehicle that needed the ball joints. An '88 IROC-Z.

here are the tools needed to accomplish this. A bottle jack, 7/8" wrench, 15/16" wrench, BIG hammer, ball joint separator, 13mm socket, 3/8" drive ratchet, hex wrench, and lug wrench. Now, of course, you see air tools. But they are not necessary.

Support the control arm with a floor jack. Or some other means.

Next obvious step is to remove the wheel.

Remove caliper bolts with hex wrench. Or a hex socket like I have.

Then, remove the caliper hose from the strut. Let the caliper hang towards the rear.

Using the 15/16" wrench, remove the nut from the ball joint. There is a cotter pin keeping the nut from moving. You can pull it out with a pair of pliers. Sometimes the cotter pin is rusted in. No need to worry. Just turn the nut. It will break the cotter pin. Don't need it. you get a new one with the new ball joint.

A little difficult to see. But, take the ball joint separator and place it between the spindle and the control arm. You can do this from either side. Hit it with the BIG hammer. the ball joint stud will come loose from the spindle.

Again, using the BIG hammer, strike the ball joint real hard. May need to do it a couple of times. It'll pop out. Some people say you need to use a ball joint press to do this. If you want you can. Not necessary. You can see in the picture, I used a bungee cord to hold the rotor and spindle out of the way. If you want, you can remove the top nut of the strut and completely remove the assembly.

As you can see, it's out!!!

Here's the fun. Put the ball joint in the control arm. Take the bottle jack and put under it. Jack the control arm up until you are off whatever you used to support the arm in the beginning. Then, using the BIG hammer, strike the control arm. The ball joint will start to go back in. You may need to jack the control arm up some more. You are using the weight of the car to press it back in. Take heed in this step. What you need to make sure of is that the ball joint is all the way back in. If you look from underneath the control arm, there is a lip that the ball joint rests on. Make sure there is no gap between the ball joint and the control arm lip. Make sure you do not put the bottle jack where the grease fitting goes. Because you can damage the thread hole and may not be able to get the fitting in. Also, I used some lube on the ball joint. Something like WD40 or PB blaster will be fine. Spray it on the ball joint and the hole where the ball joint goes.

Ball joint is now "pressed" in. Put the dust boot over the ball joint stud. Take note that the dust boot has words on the lip saying "INSTALL INBOARD." There is a little rise on the lip of the dust boot. Put it towards the inside of the car. This is so when you grease the ball joint, any excess is let out towards the spring instead of the rotor.  Now, put the spindle back over the ball joint stud. Install the supplied nut with a 7/8" wrench. For some reason it's a different size than the original one. PUT THE COTTER PIN IN!!!! If you don't the nut will back off. the next thing you know your driving down the road one day and the spindle comes off the ball joint. Now you're stuck there. Tow home. Hit yourself repeatedly on the head and go, "That was stupid!!!" Screw the zerk fitting into the ball joint. Grease the ball joint.

Install the caliper to the spindle. Put the caliper hose on the strut. Go back over all you just did. Make sure the COTTER PIN is in. The caliper and hose is tight. If you remove the strut from the car, make sure the top nut is tight. After you have done this, make sure one more time. Finally, put the wheel back on and tighten the lug nuts. Lower car back down and you are done.  Total time to do both ball joints was 1.5 hours.