IDLER ARM R & R

    This is a guide on how to remove and replace the idler arm on a 3rd generation f-body. Car donated for experimentation was FLATHIRDGEN's 1992 Chevrolet Camaro RS.

As usual, lift and support the car from underneath. Remove the passenger tire.

Remove the nut on top with an 18mm wrench. Then, using a tuning fork, pickle fork, or ball joint separator ( called many things), separate the idler arm form the center link.

From the passenger side, you remove the 2 bolts and nuts holding it to the car. The bolt size is 18mm. you will need to put a wrench on the inside. 

As you can see, the idler arm holes are slotted. This is so you can move it up/down to make the center link parallel to the ground. This is to ensure proper toe-out-in-turns. To explain this better, the inner tire in a turn needs to turn sharper than the outer tire. For instance, left tire in a left turn goes 20*. The right tire would turn 18*. The right tire has to travel further than the left tire in the turn.

Old one on top. New one on bottom. As you can see the MOOG replacement is a better and stronger design.
 

Now, reinstall everything. This idler arm has a grease fitting to put in it. that way it won't wear out as fast. Make sure the center link is parallel to the ground. This doesn't affect the alignment settings such as camber, caster and toe. But it doesn't hurt to have one done if you haven't had one in awhile.
   
   
   
   

Before alignment, the center link should be checked to make sure it is parallel. To check height, first clean the bottom machined flats on both sides of the center link. Install center link adjustment gauge on flat near pitman arm. Next, install a socket onto head of front pivot bolt on left side lower control arm. Measure the distance from the bottom of the socket to the adjustment gauge. Now, repeat on the idler arm side. Measurements should be within 0.04" (1 mm).